Have you ever owned a pair of jeans that were just a little too snug? Instead of consigning them to the back of your closet or reluctantly parting ways with your cherished denim, consider transforming them with a simple yet effective technique: adding side panels to expand their circumference. This alteration, meticulously crafted with sewing expertise, offers a practical solution for breathing new life into your beloved jeans, allowing them to comfortably conform to your changing shape or wardrobe needs.
To embark on this sartorial adventure, you will require a sewing machine, matching thread, fabric scissors, a seam ripper (optional), and a suitable fabric for the side panels. The choice of fabric is crucial, as it should complement the weight and texture of your jeans. Consider using denim or a similar sturdy material to ensure a cohesive appearance and maintain the durability of your altered garment.
Meticulously measure the areas where you desire additional space, taking into account the desired amount of expansion. Mark these measurements onto the fabric, allowing for seam allowances. Cut out the side panels, ensuring they are symmetrical for both legs. Carefully unpick the side seams of your jeans, leaving the waistband and inseams intact. Pin the side panels into place, aligning the raw edges with the exposed seam allowances. Using your sewing machine, stitch the side panels securely, reinforcing the seams for longevity. Trim any excess fabric and press the seams flat, completing the transformation of your jeans into a more comfortable and flattering fit.
Determining the Needed Panel Size
Measuring the Original Waist
Before you start sewing, it’s crucial to accurately measure your original jeans’ waist to determine the size of the side panel you’ll need. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
1. Find the original waistband: Locate the waistband that runs along the top of your jeans. Measure the distance from one end to the other at the seam where the waistband meets the leg.
2. Mark the center: Find the center of the waistband by measuring the distance from each end to the other. Mark the center point with a small chalk mark or a pin.
3. Measure half the waist: From the center point, measure half the original waist distance towards one end of the waistband.
4. Add ease: To ensure a comfortable fit, add an additional 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of ease to the measurement you took in step 3. This will give you the new waist measurement for your jeans.
5. Calculate panel width: To determine the width of the side panel, subtract the original waist size from the new waist size. The difference is the amount of fabric you’ll need to insert on each side of the jeans.
Converting Waist Measurement to Panel Length
Once you have the panel width, you need to convert it to the panel length. Use the following formula:
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Panel Length = Panel Width x 2 + 2 inches (for overlap)
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For example, if your panel width is 4 inches (10 cm), the panel length will be:
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4 inches x 2 + 2 inches = 10 inches (25 cm)
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Selecting Suitable Fabric for the Side Panels
When choosing fabric for side panels, consider factors such as:
- Fabric Weight: Select fabric with a weight similar to your jeans to prevent stretching or bulging.
- Material: Choose a durable fabric such as denim, canvas, or twill that can withstand wear and tear.
- Color: Opt for fabric that matches or complements the color of your jeans for a cohesive look.
Recommended Fabric Types
Consider the following fabric types for side panels:
| Fabric Type | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Denim | Versatile, durable, and available in a wide range of colors |
| Canvas | Sturdy, abrasion-resistant, and ideal for casual jeans |
| Twill | Durable, wrinkle-resistant, and available in various colors and textures |
Remember to match the fabric’s stretchiness to the original jeans for optimal comfort and fit.
Preparing the Panels for Sewing
Once you have determined the desired width of the side panels, follow these steps to prepare them for sewing:
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Calculating the Fabric Amount
Measure the length of the jeans’ side seam from the waistband to the hem. Multiply this length by the desired width of the side panel. This will give you the total amount of fabric required for each side panel.
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Cutting the Fabric
Use a measuring tape and fabric marker to mark the dimensions of the side panels on the fabric. Cut out the panels using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter.
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Finishing the Edges
To prevent fraying, it’s important to finish the edges of the side panels before sewing them onto the jeans. You can do this by using a serger, zigzag stitch on a sewing machine, or simply folding over the edges and hemming them.
Method Recommended for Serger Quickest and most durable method, but requires a serger machine Zigzag stitch Can be done on a regular sewing machine, but slower than using a serger Hemming Simple and effective, but may not be as durable as serging or zigzag stitching
Pinning the Panels to the Jeans
4. Sewing the Side Panels to the Jeans
With the top and bottom edges of the side panels pinned securely to the jeans, you can now begin sewing. Use a sewing machine with a straight stitch and matching thread. Start by sewing along the top edge of the panel, close to the edge, but not so close that the fabric will fray. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam for added strength.
Next, sew along the bottom edge of the panel, again close to the edge. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of this seam as well. Once the side panels are sewn securely to the jeans, you can remove all the pins.
Tips for Sewing the Side Panels
- Use a sharp needle to prevent the fabric from snagging.
- Take your time and sew slowly to ensure a neat and even stitch.
- If the fabric is thick or bulky, you may need to use a larger needle and longer stitch length.
- If you are using lightweight fabric, you may want to use a thin piece of interfacing to stabilize the seams.
| Fabric Type | Needle Size | Stitch Length |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight Denim | 70/10 | 2.5mm |
| Medium-weight Denim | 80/12 | 3mm |
| Heavyweight Denim | 90/14 | 3.5mm |
Inserting the Side Panels
Place the first side panel right side out against the wrong side of the jeans waistband. Align the raw edges and pin in place from the waistband to the hem.
Repeat the process with the second side panel on the other side of the jeans. Pin it in place, ensuring the raw edges match those of the first panel.
Sewing the Top and Bottom Seams
Using a sewing machine, stitch along the pinned edges of the top and bottom waistband seams. Start and stop the stitching 1.2 cm (1/2 inch) from the top and bottom edges of the waistband.
Sewing the Side Seams
Unfold the side panels so that the right sides of the jeans and panels are facing each other. Pin along the side seams, aligning the edges from the waistband to the hem.
Sewing the Inner Leg Seams
Fold the jeans in half lengthwise, so that the right sides are facing each other. Align the raw edges of the inner leg seams and pin in place from the crotch to the hem.
Stitch along the pinned edges using a sewing machine. Start and stop the stitching 1.2 cm (1/2 inch) from the crotch and hem.
Reinforcing the Seams
To ensure the seams stay secure, sew straight lines perpendicular to the side seams, inner leg seams, and top and bottom waistband seams. These lines should extend approximately 3 cm (1.2 inches) from the seam line on either side.
This reinforcement helps prevent the seams from pulling apart and extend the life of your jeans.
Pressing the Jeans
Once the panels are sewn in place, press the jeans to flatten the seams and remove any wrinkles. This will give your jeans a professional finished look.
Trimming and Finishing the Seams
Clipping the Seam Allowance
Once you’ve sewn the side seams and reinforced them with zigzag stitches, use sharp scissors to trim the excess seam allowance to about 1/4″ (0.6 cm).
Serging the Seam Allowance
If you have a serger, it’s a great way to finish the seam allowance and prevent fraying. Set the stitch length to about 2.5-3 mm and the stitch width to 3 mm. Serge over the trimmed seam allowance.
Topstitching the Side Seams
Using a contrasting thread, topstitch the side seams with a straight or zigzag stitch. This will help secure the seams and give them a finished look.
Pressiing the Side Seams
Use an iron on a medium-high heat setting to press the side seams open. Make sure to press them flat and straight, and let them cool completely before wearing the jeans.
Trimming the Excess Fabric
Once the side seams are finished, you may need to trim any excess fabric from the hem. Fold the hem up to the desired length and press it in place. Then, measure and trim any excess fabric from the sides and bottom of the legs.
Finishing the Hem
To finish the hem, you can fold it up twice and topstitch it in place. You can also serge the hem allowance or use a blind hem stitch to create a more invisible finish.
Inserting Darts for a Custom Fit (Optional)
Darts, or triangular fabric insertions, can be used to enhance the fit and shape of your jeans, especially in areas where the fabric is loose or requires more contouring. This technique is optional and mainly suits those with curvy figures or who want a more tailored look. To insert a dart, follow these steps:
- Mark the Dart Location: Determine the area where the fabric needs to be taken in, such as the thighs or waistband. Pin the fabric together at the desired width and length.
- Stitch the Dart: Starting from the widest point, sew along the marked lines towards the narrow end. Secure the thread and remove the pins.
- Press the Dart: Use a warm iron to press open the dart, creating a smooth and defined crease. Repeat the process for any additional darts you may need.
Determining Dart Placement:
The placement and number of darts depend on your body shape and the desired fit. Here’s a guide to common dart locations:
Remember, darts can be used to both reduce and add fabric, giving you more control over your jeans’ fit and achieving a personalized look.
Ensuring Adequate Fabric Overlap
Overlapping the fabric correctly is crucial for creating a strong and seamless side panel that will not tear easily. Follow these steps to ensure adequate overlap:
1. Determine the desired width of the side panel: Measure the area where you want to add the panel and determine the width of fabric you will need. Ensure that the panel is wide enough to cover the desired area plus at least 1 inch for overlap on each side.
2. Mark the overlap area on the jeans: Using a fabric marker or chalk, mark the area where the side panel will be sewn onto the jeans. Make sure that the marks extend 1 inch beyond the edge of the desired panel width on both sides.
3. Cut the side panel fabric: Cut a piece of fabric to the desired length and width, ensuring that it is at least 1 inch wider on each side for overlap.
4. Fold and press the side panel edges: Fold over 1 inch of fabric on the side panel’s **short** edges (top and bottom) and press them down with an iron. These folded edges will create clean and reinforced seams.
5. Fold and press the overlap areas on the jeans: Fold over 1 inch of fabric on the jeans’ marked overlap areas and press them down. These folded edges will meet the folded edges of the side panel, providing a double layer of fabric for a stronger seam.
6. Pin the side panel to the jeans: Align the side panel with the marked overlap areas on the jeans. Pin the panel in place, ensuring that the folded edges of both the jeans and the panel are matched up.
7. Sew the side panel: Using a sewing machine and a heavy-duty thread, sew a straight stitch along the pinned edges, securing the side panel to the jeans. Start and stop your stitches just outside the marked overlap areas.
8. Finish the seam allowances: To prevent fraying and strengthen the seam, finish the raw edges of the seam allowances using a zigzag stitch, overlock stitch, or serger. This will help secure the seam and give it a professional finish.
Reinforcing the Side Seams for Durability
To ensure the side seams of your expanded jeans remain strong and durable, it’s crucial to reinforce them. Here’s a step-by-step guide to achieve this:
1. Flatten the Side Seams:
Open up the side seams of both legs from the waistband to the hem.
2. Cut Bias Strips:
Cut bias strips of fabric that are approximately 1.5 inches wide and long enough to cover the length of the side seams.
3. Iron the Bias Strips:
Iron the bias strips so they have a crisp fold along one edge.
4. Place Bias Strips:
Place the bias strips along the outside edge of each side seam, with the folded edge facing the inside of the jeans.
5. Pin Bias Strips:
Pin the bias strips in place, ensuring they overlap the existing side seams by a few millimeters.
6. Stitch Bias Strips:
Using a sewing machine and a straight stitch, stitch along the raw edge of the bias strips, securing them to the side seams.
7. Trim Excess Fabric:
Trim any excess fabric around the edges of the bias strips, leaving a small amount of overlap.
8. Reinforce with Top-Stitching:
Top-stitch along the outer edge of the bias strips to further secure them and add a decorative touch.
9. Bar-Tack Stitching for Extra Strength:
For added durability, apply bar-tack stitching at the top and bottom of each side seam where the bias strip reinforcement meets the original seam. This involves sewing a series of parallel stitches back and forth across the seam to create a reinforced square or rectangle.
Bar-Tack Stitching Table:
| Number of Stitches | Length of Stitches | Distance Between Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| 12-16 | 5-7mm | 2-3mm |
By reinforcing the side seams with bias strips and bar-tack stitching, your expanded jeans will be more resistant to stretching and tearing, ensuring they remain comfortable and durable for longer.
Seam Allowance
When sewing the side panels, it’s important to use a consistent seam allowance throughout. This will help ensure that the finished jeans have a professional look and fit. A seam allowance of 5/8 inch is recommended.
Top Stitching
Once the side panels are sewn in place, you can topstitch them to reinforce the seams and give the jeans a more finished look. Topstitching can be done by machine or by hand using a needle and thread.
Hemming
The final step is to hem the jeans to the desired length. To create a professional-looking hem, use a blind stitch or a machine stitch with a narrow zigzag stitch.
Tips for a Professional Finish
Using the Correct Thread
When sewing jeans, it’s important to use the correct thread. A heavy-duty thread, such as Coats & Clark Dual Duty Plus, is recommended. This type of thread is strong enough to withstand the wear and tear that jeans are subjected to.
Matching the Stitch Length
The stitch length should be adjusted to match the weight of the fabric. For lightweight jeans, a shorter stitch length (2-3 stitches per inch) will produce a more durable seam. For heavyweight jeans, a longer stitch length (4-5 stitches per inch) can be used.
Using a Denim Needle
A denim needle is designed to sew through thick, tough fabrics like denim. Using a denim needle will help prevent the needle from breaking and will produce a more durable seam.
Pressing the Seams
Pressing the seams after each step will help to give the jeans a professional finish. Pressing the seams will also help to set the stitches and prevent them from unraveling.
Topstitching the Side Panels
Topstitching the side panels will help to reinforce the seams and give the jeans a more finished look. When topstitching, use a heavy-duty thread and a stitch length of 3-4 stitches per inch.
Hemming the Jeans
The final step is to hem the jeans to the desired length. To create a professional-looking hem, use a blind stitch or a machine stitch with a narrow zigzag stitch.
Other Tips
| Tip | Description |
|---|---|
| Use a fabric pen or chalk to mark the desired seam allowance and hemline. | This will help to ensure that the seams are sewn evenly and the hem is the correct length. |
| Test the fit of the jeans before sewing the side panels. | This will help to ensure that the jeans fit properly and that the side panels are the correct size. |
| Take your time and sew carefully. | Rushing the process can lead to mistakes and a less than professional finish. |
How to Make Jeans Bigger With Sewing Side Panel
If your favorite pair of jeans has become too snug, don’t despair. You can easily make them bigger with a few simple sewing techniques. By adding a side panel, you can increase the waist or hip circumference without altering the overall length of the jeans.
Here are the steps on how to make jeans bigger with sewing side panel:
- Turn your jeans inside out and lay them flat on a table.
- Measure the desired amount of room you need to add. This will determine the width of your side panel.
- Cut a piece of fabric that is the same length as the side seam of your jeans and the desired width.
- Pin the side panel to the inside of your jeans, aligning the long edges.
- Sew the side panel in place using a straight stitch.
- Turn your jeans right side out and try them on to ensure they fit comfortably.
People also Ask
What fabric can I use for the side panel?
You can use any type of fabric that is the same weight and stretchiness as your jeans. Some good options include denim, twill, or corduroy.
Can I use this technique to make jeans smaller?
No, this technique can only be used to make jeans bigger. To make jeans smaller, you would need to remove fabric from the side seams.
How do I prevent the side panel from fraying?
To prevent the side panel from fraying, you can either finish the edges with a serger or zig-zag stitch. You can also apply a small amount of fabric glue to the edges.
